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When assembling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate well-known award-winning venues. But, tucked near the top among these food giants is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of north London.

A Unexpected Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a influential food magazine. This honour has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am totally surprised,” remarks the owner’s son, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their modest restaurant achieving such a lofty ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a popular destination, has kept much of its original charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking show, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” says the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a powerful burst of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the top of the list, following other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can cost significantly more than that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to reveal what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning outside its own doors. “I believe many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the broader meaning of this culinary achievement.